The Truth About Venice
My wife and I sat in our room at the Westin Europa and Regina trying to plot out dinner plans over a bottle of Prosecco. She manned the TripAdvisor app on our tablet, and I managed a few blogs on my phone and a myriad of tour books. We wanted to find the perfect restaurant for that authentic Venetian meal. The kind of place where we were the only tourists in a five block radius and the owner would give us samplings from the kitchen. The staff would wave goodbye, tearful as we left.
The Beauty that is Venice
Reviews for a restaurant would read as follows. “Perfect authentic Venetian meal! The owner even came out of the kitchen to greet us.” A more recent review would read. “A little more touristy than described. Quality of food has fallen. Doesn’t appear that the owners can keep up with demand.” The most recent review would read. “Don’t go here. Overrun by tourists. Long waits for terrible food. This unspoiled spot has been spoiled.” It appeared that as Venice is decaying into the rising waters, so is its authenticity. A city of once 170,000 strong and one of the richest and most powerful in the world, has been lessened to a population of 60,000 and a stop on the cruise and summer pack backing circuits hosting 50,000 tourists a day. It has become a Disney for the well travelled.
The Chaos that is Venice
Don’t get me wrong. You should still visit Venice. Any traveler worth his salt should visit Venice. But don’t go expecting to a see a city flourishing with art and high culture. That is of an era gone by. You can, however, witness what remains – its history and remnants of bygone eras. It’s not about the culture of today, but about the culture of Venice’s rich and regal past.
Basilica of Saint Mary of Health
The living museum that is now Venice is perfectly weathered, slowly crumbling into the sea. The buildings are so flawlessly aged that I saw a tourist touching stucco and exposed brick, questioning the authenticity of its decay. The first thing to do in Venice is to get lost in this beauty. Roam the haphazardly planned archways, alleys, canals and bridges. Visit boutiques, tourist shops, high end designers, coffee shops, restaurants, gelato shops. All appear to be perfectly plotted in a Disneyesque manner.
Breathe in the architecture of the grand palaces and churches. Maybe even stumble into a few to catch a glimpse of Venice’s artistic past where works by Tintoretto, Bellini, and other former artistic residents are housed and preserved for time. Perhaps even wander into one of the many Scoulas – the places where many of the great artists actually learned their craft – that are open to the public as museums. This is where the art once happened. Not on the streets by overpriced stencilists like you find today.
Life in the Rialto Market
Spend some time at the Rialto market. Breathe in the smell of the fresh seafood and produce. Come early and watch the chefs and what’s left of the locals buy their food for the day. Close your eyes and imagine a Rialto of times gone past when Shakespeare penned the Merchant of Venice. Hear Shylock say, “What news on the Rialto?” This magical market was the heartbeat of the city. Do the same outside of the Doges Palace and try to imagine the great power and tyranny ruled from within the walls of the palace. Stare out at the sea which is a reminder of Venice’s once unconquerable power. Tour the palace for a further glimpse back into that era.
Wandering the Canals of Venice
All the while, try not to be annoyed by the sheer number of tourists bumping your elbow, complaining about being lost, and creating hour long lines to the popular attractions. A city where rushing once did not exist has been replaced with queues and impatience. When you’re having that, “Oh my gosh! How many tourists can be here?” moment, remember that serenity can be found in a glass of Prosecco, a cup of gelato, or an empty square. We had several of these moments. Practice the age-old Italian art of sitting and watch the other tourists rush by angry and anxious to get to the next site. Laugh at what they are missing. But don’t allow a guidebook or TripAdvisor to direct you to these spots. Find them through exploration and luck. TripAdvisor will only point you to a spot where the other 50,000 daily tourists are going as well.
Experiencing High Water in Saint Mark’s Square
Perhaps you will be as lucky as we were and glimpse a storm sweeping through Venice. Maybe you’ll even catch high water as the streets flood from the rising sea. You’ll be reminded of the ebb and flow of society and history – of what Venice once was and where it is going. We were fortunate to have visited.
Venice – Glad We Went!
What about you? Have you been to Venice? If so, what are your thoughts?
Venice is awesome.
A guide book recommendation can ruin many a place. I’ve always found it helpful to ask locals to help you find the treasures not listed in any book or website.
You are spot on. They key is to know what locals to ask. Tour operators, hotel concierges, etc will refer you to places they are getting paid to sway you to.
Great attitude–and lucid writing, trustworthy voice. Bravo.
So glad you enjoyed Venice. I hope you find/found more of what you’re looking for in Italy…
Thank you for the writing compliment! I am sucker and for those…
We did find what we were looking for – so much so that we are planning to return!
I love Venice and have been almost once a year for many years now so know it well. You’re right to say avoid the guidebooks and ask your hotel … if it’s a little place run by locals as mine is … or just wander. It’s perfectly possible to wander in quiet parts for hours with barely a tourist in sight and find little cafes and restaurants where you can eat well at sensible prices. But if you head towards San Marco then expect to pay silly prices and be caught in uncomfortable crowds. But you have to see San Marco! Great view from a vaporetto. And Venice is a joy; quite magical.
I think tourists are even beginning to invade the local spots. We found only one truly local spot that was yet to be invaded. We were lost. I almost don’t want to give out the name, but it was La Corte. Another, that was recommended by another couple we met on our travels was Trattoria Rivetta. They said its where the gondoliers all eat. The food was good, but it was overrun by tourists and angry locals looking on as we invaded their spot.
Oh dear. Well I was last there in April and just love it and hope the quieter places don’t get totally overrun!!
Bryan: that’s the most spot-on review of Venice I’ve ever read.
The good restaurants won’t even let you in if you’re a tourist. Plus the rest gauge your for canned food and cheap wine.
The best way to go is to hit the small shops for door and wine and find a bench in town or take it back to your hotel.
The architecture is incredible, as are the museums and general layout of the city.
The Guggenheim is a must, too!
I believe it was Anthony Bourdain who said that Venice has the most expensive mediocre food you will ever try. We ate some meals in Venice that were off the charts awesome. Others, a Big Mac would be a better value… Wish we would have made the Guggenheim.
Nice review! I visited in November and found it unbearably crowded even then. I resorted to setting my alarm for 5am one morning to walk the streets in peace. Venice for just me and the binmen; bliss!
True story…the dining at our hotel overlooked the Grand Canal. We had free breakfast in our plan so every morning we enjoyed an amazing view of the going-ons of the canal – including the garbage men picking up the hotels rubbish during the entire breakfast hour!
I’ve been to Venice twice . . . it’s an absolute nest of chaos! Our kids were with us both times . . . and I spent a lot of hours wishing I had one of those obnoxious kid leashes so I wouldn’t lose my daughter in the sea of humanity floating through the mazes of streets. That said, we set out to “get lost” both times, succeeded, and ended up having fantastic days. We soaked up the colors, the architecture, the food and the wine. Would I go again? Sure. But maybe without the kids next time. Salute!
Venice doesn’t seem to be a very kid friendly town. What sorts of activities did you do with them?
Mostly we just played “mommy has a death grip on your hand” all day . . .
I’ve wandered the quieter streets of Venice. I’ve seen the high water in St. Mark’s square, the tourists balancing on the low tables set up over the flooded cobbles and the pigeons gathered on one or two of the dryer spots of pavement that they could find. Your views of Venice and photos are lovely!
We spent two hours (with a pause for a spritz along the way) trying to find dry pavement back to our hotel. We zig-zagged various streets and blocks to no avail. Alas, we took off our shoes, rolled up our pant legs, and waded the flooded streets.
Love it. We, too, search for the very same places as you two. On a side note, do you have a particular Prosecco you’d recommend? (Hand goes to mouth and she mumbles something about never having tried it before.) Yeah, so any words of wisdom are greatly appreciated.
AND!!! Next time you’re in TPA, try the Stein and Vine! Just go to their website and ogle the craft beer section. Nuff said.
Sunday night we enjoyed a Carra Pucinella brought back from Italy which was divine. I believe they import it to some states.
Not sure when my next Tampa trip is. I’ll reach out for food and drink suggestions prior.
Grazie! I’ll check the local wine shop. And, yes, we’ll hold you to it next trip down.
The Wandering Gourmand, I agree with you about TripAdvisor! I afraid that very soon their sticker on the entrance to cafe will be sign for me “Don’t come in”.
We have also been to Venice, but with a short visit, now we prepare to live in it for ten days in February to take part in the carnival (we have medieval costumes) and see the city with minimum of tourists.
Carnival in Venice would be fun. Enjoy!
I went to Venice in 2007 but remember two things: gelato and bellini’s. The BEST bellini’s. I did find it best to ask locals rather than rely on books/travel sites…that being said, don’t go in summer when the locals are gone on vacation : P
No, I’ve never been to Venice, but my son said it’s wonderful. Did you get your dinner?
Reblogged this on The Second Time Around.